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Putting it to work — the decisions you make differently on Monday

This lesson supplies the method the book leaves out: how to sequence a decision, set a price in advance, weigh borrowed money, and write a stopping rule before you need one. It also covers what to do with a pay rise and how to track one monthly figure that shows whether anything changed.

Lesson 5 ~15 min Exercise Free · no account needed

The method the book leaves out

Lesson 3 named the criticism that survives everything else said about this book: it is thin where a method would be. Emmert's 2003 charge in The Motley Fool was that the material carries almost no specific financial advice, and lesson 3 unpacked what that means by listing what a method would have to contain. Which thing to buy. In what order, against what you already owe. At what price, and how you would know the price was wrong. With whose money, and what happens if that money is called back. And how you would know you had made a mistake, early enough to stop.

Five items. The course cannot answer the first for you, and neither can anything else that does not know your circumstances. The moment a book, a course or a chatbot names the thing to buy, it has stopped teaching and started recommending. That is the line this course does not cross.

The other four are different in kind. They are about sequence and evidence rather than selection, which means they can be written as a procedure and run by anyone. That is the part the book leaves empty and this lesson fills.

Order. Start with what you already owe, and the rate on it. A rate you are being charged is a fixed, known figure printed on a statement. A return on something you buy is an estimate about the future. Setting one against the other is a comparison you can do on paper, and it is a sum rather than an opinion. Doing it does not tell you what to do next; not doing it means the choice was made by whatever felt more exciting.

Price. Before you look at a thing again, write two figures: what you would pay, and what you would not. Written afterwards, the second one has a way of moving. The FCA's own consumer questions start in a related place (could you afford to lose the money, do you understand it, could you get it out) and a price you set in advance is what makes those questions answerable rather than rhetorical.

Whose money. If any of it is borrowed, write down what happens when the rate resets or the money is called back. Lesson 3 made the point that matters most here: money released from a home stays secured on the home. The risk has moved rather than gone, and no part of the book's cash-flow test measures it, because that test only reports which way money went last month.

The stopping rule. Write, in advance, what would tell you this was not working, and the date you will look. This is the one almost nobody writes down, and it is the only one that has to be written before rather than after, because afterwards every outcome has an explanation attached. A signal and a date, decided while you are still calm, is the whole of it.

Notice what these four have in common. None of them requires money, a product, or a decision about markets. They are all writing things down before the moment when you would rather not. That is the method the book was missing, and it is unglamorous enough that no one would sell a seminar on it.

The pay rise, and the two kinds of spending

Monday-morning behaviour changes at the points where money moves, and for most people the largest of those is a rise. It is worth being exact about what a rise does. It raises what comes in. Whether it also raises what goes out is a separate matter, and the decision gets made either way. By you, or by default, and the default is not neutral.

The only cheap moment to make it is before the first payslip at the new figure, because at that point nothing has been built on the money. Two lines are enough. Today's monthly take-home, written down. And the share of the increase that will change what you spend, decided in advance. Half, none, all of it — the figure is yours and this course has no view on it. What matters is that afterwards there is a decision with a number attached instead of a drift with a story attached.

There is a reason this goes beyond tidiness, and it comes from the book's own definition. Lesson 2 credited it with giving financial freedom a checkable meaning: monthly income from what you own, set against monthly living costs. Raise the living costs and you have moved the finish line. That is not an argument against enjoying a rise. It is an argument for knowing which of the two figures you just changed.

Which leads to the second decision, and it is the useful half of the book applied to ordinary spending. Sort what leaves your account by whether it buys future income. Sensible, deserved and embarrassing are separate questions. Three columns, because two would be a lie.

The first is spending that buys future income: money that goes into something which will pay you later. The second is spending on something you chose, want, and would choose again. The third is spending that is still running because nobody cancelled it.

The book's framing tends to collapse the second column into the third, which is why the argument loses at the dinner table. Almost nobody will accept that a holiday they saved for is a failure of financial discipline, and they are right not to. The line worth drawing is between the third column and everything else. It is the only one you can act on this week without giving up anything you value, and for most households it is not small.

One honest edge. The columns are not always clean. A training course, a car that gets you to work, a phone you both need and enjoy. Sometimes the answer is "both", and writing "both" beats forcing a line that is not there. The sorting is a way of seeing. It passes no verdict, which is the same caution lesson 2 attached to the book's test.

One number, once a month

The last decision is what to measure, and the answer is a single figure. Money that came in last month from things you own rather than from your hours. Rent received, interest, dividends, royalties, anything paid to you because of something you hold rather than something you did.

Write it on the same day each month, with the date beside it. That is the entire system. No spreadsheet, no categories, no app.

Why one number and not a dashboard. Lesson 2 made the case for direction over snapshot: a net worth figure can rise for a year while a household is short every month, because a snapshot has no direction in it. This figure is nothing but direction. It is also the moving half of the target the book supplies (that number against monthly living costs) and a target you write down monthly is a different object from a target you hold as an intention.

Be ready for what it says at first. For most people it is nought, or close to it, and it stays small for a long while. That is a fact about where you are standing. It passes no verdict on you, and a figure that refuses to move is still telling you something worth hearing.

What the number protects against is the thing this subject is full of: activity that feels like progress. Reading about money does not move this column. Nor does opening an account and never funding it, or watching an hour of videos about assets, or finishing a course — including this one. The column moves when something you own pays you, and it is indifferent to how informed you feel.

The honest limit belongs here rather than in a footnote. This is a measurement. No method is implied. Watching it does not raise it, and nothing in this course's sources establishes that any particular route raises it — lesson 3 was blunt that the book's framework has no evidence of outcomes behind it. What a dated monthly figure gives you is the ability to tell whether anything you did made a difference. Most people who read a money book never find that out, in either direction, and that is the gap this closes.

Exercise

Three decisions, written down

About an hour, and nothing in it costs money. Each step ends with something on paper that has a figure and a date on it, because a decision without those is a mood. Do them in order — the last one depends on the first.

1
Write the order down.

List everything you owe, with the rate against each. Then, in one line, the rate something you bought would have to make to beat the highest of them. You are not deciding anything today. You are putting a known figure next to a forecast so that the comparison exists on paper rather than in your head.

2
Decide the rise before it arrives.

Whether or not one is coming. Write today's monthly take-home. Then write the share of any future increase that will change what you spend. Any split is a legitimate answer; refusing to pick is the one that gets made for you. Date it, and keep it where you will find it when the payslip changes.

3
Sort one month into three columns.

Last month's outgoings: buys future income, chosen and would choose again, still running because nobody cancelled it. Write "both" where it is honestly both. Total the third column. Cancel nothing today. The job this week is the total, and next week's job is one line out of it.

4
Write the stopping rule.

Pick one thing this book has made you want to do. In two lines: what would tell you it was not working, and the date you will look. Be specific enough that a stranger could check it. If you cannot name a signal, that is the finding, and it is worth more than the plan was.

5
Start the one number.

Money in last month from things you own. Write the figure and today's date, even if the figure is nought. Put a repeating reminder in your calendar for the same date next month. Lesson 6 turns this into a fortnight of practice you can hold to.

This course is not affiliated with, authorised by or endorsed by the author or publisher. It is Honelo's own teaching of the ideas in the book, with sources and check-dates, written so you can put them to work. It is not a substitute for the book.

If the ideas land, read the original: Rich Dad Poor Dad by Robert Kiyosaki. Your local library lends it free through Libby or BorrowBox.

This is general information. It is not financial advice. Honelo is not authorised or regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority, and nothing in this course is a personal recommendation to buy, sell, hold or switch any investment, property, pension or product. Your own circumstances change the right answer.

Figures and rules are correct for the 2026/27 UK tax year and were last checked on 12 August 2026. Tax rules, allowances and rates change — check gov.uk for the current position before acting. For advice on your own situation, use a regulated adviser: you can check the register at register.fca.org.uk.

Key takeaways

What to remember

  • Of the five things a method needs, only "which thing to buy" is off limits to a course. The other four (order, price, whose money, and the stopping rule) are procedure, and this lesson supplies them.
  • A rate you are charged is a known figure; a return you expect is a forecast. Putting them side by side is the first sum, and it is a sum rather than a view.
  • Write the price you would pay and the price you would not before you look again. Written afterwards, the second figure moves.
  • Write the stopping rule in advance: the signal, and the date you will check. Afterwards, every outcome comes with an explanation attached.
  • A rise raises what comes in, and raises what goes out unless that is decided. Decide it before the first payslip, in two lines, with a figure.
  • Three columns: buys future income, chosen and would choose again, and still running because nobody cancelled it. The third is the one you can act on without giving anything up.
  • Track one number monthly, dated: money in from things you own. It is a measurement. Watching it does not raise it, but it is the only way to find out whether anything you did worked.